In the grip of a cold snap, Paris is mad for winter sports gear. Queues out the door at Au Vieux Camper. The Damart store is hot with old ladies.
In the bar a girl orders a flaming crepe and when it arrives, theatrically, she and her friend set aside their iPhones and warm their hands in the blue licks, laughing but committed.
A keyboard, he demonstrated to one of a stream of happy guests, had a setting where every key made a different sound; and he played a scale made scale-less and exampled a melody transmogrified. "That's what I call music," he beamed, "it's a total surprise machine!"
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